Towing Guide: Will Your Truck Pull Our Trailers?

Towing Guide

The most common reason a rental goes sideways is showing up with a tow vehicle that wasn't built for the trailer. This page exists so that doesn't happen to you. Five minutes here saves a wasted trip.

The three numbers that matter

Tow rating. What your tow vehicle is rated to pull, listed in your owner's manual or on the door-jamb sticker. Loaded trailer weight (trailer + cargo + animals) must be at or below this.
Hitch class. Class III is good for most light-duty work. Class IV is recommended for 7x14 and larger utility trailers and for any stock trailer.
Ball size. 2" or 2-5/16" — must match the trailer's coupler exactly.

Match the trailer to your truck

Trailer	Min tow rating (loaded)	Hitch class	Ball size	Brake controller?
7×14 tandem utility	8,000 lb	Class III+	2-5/16"	Yes
7×16 tandem utility	10,000 lb	Class IV+	2-5/16"	Yes
8×20 tandem utility	12,000 lb	Class IV+	2-5/16"	Yes
16' bumper-pull stock	9,500 lb	Class IV+	2-5/16"	Yes
20' bumper-pull stock	10,000 lb	Class IV+	2-5/16"	Yes
24' bumper-pull stock	12,000 lb	Class IV+	2-5/16"	Yes

What about half-ton pickups?

A modern half-ton (Ford F-150, Chevy Silverado 1500, Ram 1500) with the tow package can usually handle our 7x14 and 7x16 utility trailers as long as your load is reasonable and you're not towing in mountainous terrain. For stock trailers loaded with livestock, we strongly recommend a 3/4-ton truck — the difference is in braking and stability, not just pulling power. If you're not sure, call us.

The brake controller question

All of our tandem-axle utility and stock trailers have electric brakes. That means your tow vehicle needs:

A working electric brake controller (factory or aftermarket).
A 7-pin trailer connector or adapter.
Brakes that have been tested with a trailer in the last year. If you've never used your brake controller, test it on a quiet road before you load up.

Hitching up: the 5-minute checklist

Coupler fully seated on the ball, locking handle down, safety pin in.
Safety chains crossed under the tongue, attached to the tow vehicle frame loops (not the ball).
Breakaway cable attached to the tow vehicle frame — NOT to the safety chains.
Electrical connector seated.
All lights tested: running, brake, left turn, right turn.
Trailer tires inflated to spec, no obvious damage.
Tongue jack fully raised and locked.

On the road

Add a couple of seconds to your following distance.
Brake earlier and more gently than you would unloaded.
Take wider turns; the trailer cuts the corner more than you think.
Watch your mirrors at highway speed for sway. If you see sway, lift off the throttle and gently apply the trailer brake — don't slam the truck brakes.
Stop after the first 10–20 miles to check the hitch, lights, and load.